Mydyat, April 2, 2024 🇹🇷
And on we go! The morning after, a few more hugs, and then we’re on our own. It feels a little strange not to be part of a group anymore after almost 6 months. We were so excited to finally set out on our own, choose our own destinations, and plan everything ourselves.
So now it’s a reality, and we’re on our way. Our destination is Diyarbakir, about 160 km from Midyat.
Diyarbakir, April 2, 2024 🇹🇷
After half a year of camper life, we’re heading back to a hotel room. We have a reservation at the Radisson Blu in Diyarbakir, where we can really relax again.
Coffee breaks whenever we want, no chicken and rice for dinner for a change, and a really good breakfast buffet.
Camping is fun… but being pampered like this again isn’t half bad either. The next two days, we’ll be out exploring again… Diyarbakir has a lot to offer.
Diyarbakir, April 3, 2024 🇹🇷
We’re enjoying exploring Diyarbakir without any time constraints. Today we’re heading to the newer part of town—shopping is on the agenda. Unfortunately, we don’t have any pictures of that; we were too busy. But tomorrow we’re off to the old town, where we’ll have some really great photos again.
In the evening, it’s… kebab, what else? Along with the obligatory Ramadan menu—free, of course—the Ramadan song, and lots of guests. Starting around 8 p.m., the same thing always happens: within minutes, the restaurant empties out and we’re usually left sitting there all by ourselves. This will continue until April 9; after that, Ramadan ends and the vacation season begins in Turkey… well then, cheers to the campsites…
We thought the mosque was quite pretty, and Adriana took a few pictures. However, a very nice local lady pointed out to us that this mosque doesn’t really have any historical value. Anyway, the photos are taken, and we don’t want to keep them from anyone.
Diyarbakir, April 4, 2024 🇹🇷
Today we’re in the old part of Diyarbakir, a truly colorful and very lively neighborhood that’s a real joy to explore.
We start with a caravanserai, the Hasan Pasha Han, which immediately captivates us. It’s by no means the largest or most famous caravanserai on our trip, but the atmosphere here is quite special. The relatively small courtyard is home to various shops, cafes, and restaurants. We decide, however, to explore the neighborhood’s markets first and return later. And even though we planned to go shopping yesterday, we just can’t resist haggling with the vendors….
Diyarbakir—and especially the neighborhood we’re in, called Sur—has a very tragic past. In 2016, a state of emergency was declared in Sur, and the Turkish army moved into the district. The operation was aimed at fighting the PKK, which was very active in this district. Details about this can also be found online.
As planned, we end up back at the caravanserai and enjoy a… cup of tea. Afterward, we head to a mosque that’s definitely worth seeing, and lo and behold, just around the corner, something completely unexpected awaits us. A completely newly built street lined with very modern cafés and restaurants. So let’s head right in and enjoy one more espresso.
Diyarbakir, April 5, 2024 🇹🇷
After three nights at the hotel, we’re heading back to our usual home. The route takes us away from Diyarbakir toward our first destination, the Black Sea. A few highlights await us along the way, and we’re excited to see what else Turkey has to offer. First, we’re heading to Keban—or rather, to the hills behind the city. The slightly more than 200 km take quite a while, but the drive is truly spectacular. Time and again, the landscape is enchanted by the blooming cherry blossoms. And so, in the late afternoon, we reach the access road to today’s campsite. Just 10 km and we’re there… According to iOverlander, it’s an easy drive and the campsite is beautiful. Well, as for those 10 km—it takes us almost an hour, and the campsite… no way; it’s so steep that we’ll never get our Joey level there. So once again, it’s time to look for an alternative and stay calm. With the two of us, it’s no problem, and soon we’ve found a nice little spot. No one will bother us here… except for the bears and wolves that are said to roam the Pontic Mountains😎
Erzican, April 6, 2024 🇹🇷
After a very peaceful night, we’re heading on to Erzican today. Since we don’t really like staying overnight in densely populated areas, we choose a campsite just outside Erzican.
We don’t know exactly what to expect today, because we haven’t gotten to the stage of detailed trip planning yet. And to be honest, that’s not really our goal anyway.
Today is yet another example of just how wonderful traveling can be when everything falls into place. Under bright sunshine, we drive over several mountain passes, see snow-capped peaks, and pass through narrow gorges and beautiful little villages. We stop for lunch in Kemaliye, a tiny village nestled in the mountains. We reach the village after a beautiful, winding descent and aren’t yet aware at this point that, until 2002, the road ended right here. The bridge and several tunnels were built over the course of several years, partly by the local population.
After our break, we continue on toward Erzican. We think we’re done with the mountain passes… or so we think. But that’s not the case—the afternoon treats us to more amazing views. Just before Erzican, we come to our campsite…and once again, we have to find an alternative. The ground is very wet, and the path is impassable. But here, too, we find a good alternative: an abandoned house that offers us some shelter from the road, found via Stay4Night. There are supposed to be bears here, too, but so far we’ve only seen a squirrel.
Maçka April 7, 2024 🇹🇷
Sumela / Trabzon April 8, 2024 🇹🇷
This morning starts off with a highlight: the Sumela Monastery. The Sumela Monastery is a former Greek Orthodox monastery from the Byzantine era located in northeastern Turkey in Maçka (Trabzon Province). The name comes from the Greek word “Melas” (black), referring to the Greek name of the mountain on whose cliff face the monastery was built. We’re allowed to drive our own vehicle up to four kilometers; from there, we take a minibus up the steep mountain. And the last 360 meters are on foot, followed by a rather long flight of stairs… you have to earn the view! The atmosphere is quite mystical; wisps of fog keep obscuring the view of the monastery. The sign with the admission prices, however, is very clearly visible… as non-locals, we pay 40 euros. But it’s worth it!
After our visit, we continue on to Trabzon, where we visit the Hagia Sophia, a famous mosque. The Hagia Sophia is a large, former Byzantine monastery church. The cross-domed church was built in the 13th century, when Trabzon (Trebizond) was the capital of the empire of the same name; it was converted into a mosque during Ottoman rule in the 16th century and, with some interruptions, served in this capacity until the 1950s. Following the restoration of the preserved frescoes, which were uncovered beneath a layer of white plaster, the city’s most significant architectural monument has been open to the public as a museum (Aya Sofya Müzesi) since 1964. Following a controversial court ruling in 2012, the Hagia Sophia was converted back into a mosque.
Afterward, we explore Trabzon, though we’re soon drawn back to our campsite just outside the city. From our camper, we have a great view of the Black Sea, and a beautiful sunset brings (almost) this wonderful day to a close. Now we’ll just pop across the street to the restaurant, where there’s something delicious to eat… and no dishes to wash afterward!
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