Through Wadi Disah to Haql: Epic Landscapes and the Road to Jordan

Mushroom Rock February 25, 2024 🇸🇦

On our way to Wadi Dissah, we decide to take our time and enjoy the journey, looking for a spot to park about halfway through the leg. On iOverlander, we find Mushroom Rock—a spot that seems perfect for spending the night. So off we go on our search; using the coordinates and keeping our eyes peeled, we look for the spot. It gets a little sandy, but thanks to our 4×4 and high ground clearance, we make good progress. Unfortunately, we don’t find Mushroom Rock (yet), but there are plenty of other rocks around. We find a really great spot that offers good protection from the wind (or so we think…). Our walk afterward reveals Mushroom Rock about 500 meters from where we’re camped. We’ll take a closer look at it tomorrow. In the meantime, the wind has shifted, and we’re getting our share of it throughout the night… kind of like being on a ship in rough seas.
The next day begins with a hike to the mushroom. We hadn’t even walked 100 meters when Claudia and Lino pulled up in their camper. There’s fresh coffee in the cozy living room. Ten minutes later, Jürg, Margi, Janette, and Thomas join us, and there’s even more coffee. Luckily, Lino’s MAN is really big, so we can comfortably chat a bit longer.
Soon we set off for Denner, since we’re heading to Wadi Dissah—apparently there are amazing rock formations there. And we aren’t disappointed! And of course, we can’t miss out on the usual encounters….

Wadi Al Disah, February 25, 2024 🇸🇦

Wadi Al Disah is a beautiful mountain valley in the northwestern province of Tabuk in Saudi Arabia. In Saudi Arabia, it’s considered one of the most beautiful—if not the most beautiful—wadis in the country. Al Disah translates to “the valley of the palm trees,” and when we arrive, we see why. The lush valley floor is surrounded by massive sandstone cliffs and pillars, which are perfect for exploring.
Our team organized a jeep tour, and it was simply amazing. The unique landscape turned into a real adventure. In the Toyota Jeeps—which were already getting on in years—we spent more time standing than sitting as we drove through the wadi at speeds that were, at times, quite high. A truly unforgettable experience in every way

Neom, February 26, 2024 🇸🇦

Today’s leg of our journey takes us along the Red Sea toward Al Bad. On our way, we visit an old fort in Duba. The King Abdulaziz Fort is one of the most striking landmarks in the city of Duba. It was built in 1932 as the government headquarters in Duba. The fort features four tall towers, a series of rooms, a large mosque, and a courtyard in the center of the fort complex.
A quick stop at the shopping center… but the smell of Indian food is really tempting. So we head into the Indian restaurant and enjoy our meal. We’ll still go shopping, though, because we do need a few things. On our way along the coast, seemingly endless lines of trucks stretch out, and everything looks like a giant construction site. That’s because the NEOM project is being built here! NEOM, also known as The Line, is a 170-kilometer-long linear city currently under construction in Saudi Arabia that is designed to operate without cars, roads, or carbon dioxide emissions. When fully completed, NEOM is set to stretch from the Red Sea to the south of the city of Tabuk. Saudi Arabia’s plans call for a population of 9 million in the final phase. The city—which Saudi Arabia claims will create 380,000 jobs and increase the country’s gross domestic product by $48 billion—is part of the Saudi Vision 2030 initiative.
Well, we find a really great spot by the sea and make a nice acquaintance with a family (there’s coffee and dates…and the coffee cups to go with them). Even the coast guard has no issue with us, and we enjoy a peaceful night by the sea.
Unfortunately, our days in Saudi Arabia are already coming to an end—a truly wonderful country with very kind people whom we’ll cherish in our hearts forever.

Al Bada, February 27, 2024 🇸🇦

Today we have a short stretch ahead of us without many highlights. And once again, the NEOM construction site accompanies us the whole way. Endless lines of trucks and construction sites as far as the eye can see. Once we arrive in Al-Bada, we drive briefly through the village and suddenly… three knocks on the side of our Joey. What was that? We pull over and don’t see anything at first—everything seems fine. We don’t see anything on the road either, so we continue on to the parking spot. There, we take a little more time to look, and lo and behold, we have three small dents on the side. Our dash cam then clears things up. We see three little boys throwing rocks down from the hill. That kind of thing can happen, though this is the first time it’s happened to us, and we’re glad it didn’t hit the windshield!

Murgha’ir Shu’ayb – Madyan, February 28, 2024 🇸🇦

Today we’re heading back to the tombs, though these aren’t as well-known as Hegra or Petra.
Most scholars agree that Al-Bada’ is the ancient city of Madyan. Madyan refers to both a region and a city and likely dates back to the end of the 2nd millennium B.C. It is known as the place where the Prophet Moses spent ten years in voluntary exile after fleeing Egypt, and which was inhabited by the tribe of the Madiyan. Madyan was divided into two zones: the residential area of Al-Maliha, which was likely fortified, and the Nabatean necropolis, which was carved into the slopes of Jebel Mussalla. Mugha’ir Shu’ayb (the Caves of Jethro) are likely Nabatean tombs dating from the 1st century CE. These monuments, with their ornate facades and burial chambers recessed into the ground, suggest that the tombs are similar to those in Petra, Jordan, and Hegra/Madain Saleh in the province of Madinah. There are 16 cemeteries and 30 tombs, some of which are adorned with monumental facades in the typical Nabataean style. One of them features a column decorated with a capital, demonstrating the influence of ancient Greece and Rome in the northern part of the Arabian Peninsula.
We listen with interest to the always fascinating and entertaining explanations from our tour guide, Ali.

Haqil, February 28, 2024 🇸🇦

Our final destination in Saudi Arabia is the border town of Haql. The town itself doesn’t have much to offer, but our campsite is beautifully situated. We have a great view of the Red Sea and the Sinai Peninsula. In the evening, we have an official farewell with Ali and his assistant, Ali 2. We enjoy tea, coffee, and cake in a relaxed atmosphere. Afterward, Valery briefs us once more on tomorrow’s border crossing into Jordan. It shouldn’t be a big deal—2–3 hours for the whole group should be enough… inshallah

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